Que Es El Mejor Remedio Que Ahy ?

[grunt111]

Quiero Sellarle Unos Craks Que Tiene Mi Bote En El Tope Y Debajo Pero Como Yo No Se Bregar Con Fiber Glass Pues Aver Si Ahy Algun Epoxy O Algo Asi Para Sellar Eso Por Un Rato?

[RCMagic]

Este es un articulo que encontre en el internet RC Control Boat Modeler (http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3918/is_200408/ai_n9457893) relacionado a tu pregunta

TYPICAL DAMAGE FROM IMPACTS on big gas boats involves cracks and breaks in gelcoat finishes and in the underlying fiberglass. This repair technique is specific to polyester resin. Before you begin, gather all the materials you'll need. They are available at most marine-supply stores and at wellstocked RC hobby shops. To get a good color match, contact the hull's manufacturer directly to find out whether he'll sell you the gelcoat used on your boat.

Gelcoat can be color-matched at a qualifled marine-material outlet store, where the correct,pigments to be used are calculated on a computer. have done this several times, and it works remarkably well. In general, it is preferable to make any hull repairs from the inside. first, examine the damaged area and remove any internal hull components as well as any flotation foam that might get in the way of the repair. This makes it easier to clean the hull's interior and creates more room to work. Once you have done this, clean the hull inside and out with a strong detergent and warm water. Rinse the hull and let it dry before you begin the repair. I can't stress enough how important it is to thoroughly clean the area to be repaired before you apply fiberglass and resin.

PATCHING THE DAMAGE

If the damage is severe, use a Dremel Moto-Tool to grind away any fragments (don't piece them back together). Cover the hull opening with a piece of wax paper and secure it with several pieces of masking tape. Support the wax paper with cardboard. Position the hull so you can work directly over the damaged area. Let gravity hold the repair material in place.

The best temperature for making repairs is between 60 and 72 degrees F. Lower temperatures lengthen cure time, and higher temperatures shorten the curing process. The average time to work with properly mixed polyester resin is about 20 minutes-time enough to easily carry out each step of the repair, but everything must be ready to go in place.

Cut three pieces of the ¾-ounce fiberglass mat to a size about an inch larger than the entire area to be repaired. Clean the inside edges around the damaged area with a rag and acetone. Pour 1 ounce of polyester resin into a mixing cup and add 8 to 10 drops of the hardener. Mix it thoroughly, and then brush some resin about 1 inch around the interior of the area to be repaired. Place the first layer of mat over the area and allow it to absorb the resin (completely saturate the mat, adding more resin, if necessary). Apply the sec ond and third layers over the first, and work out all the air bubbles with your brush. The mat will move and conform to the hull's shape once it is saturated. Dab it lightly with the brush until it sits nicely in place. Remove any excess resin by dabbing it with the brush and wiping the brush with a paper towel. Continue to remove resin until the patch looks dry; then let the resin cure for an hour or so.

SURFACE PREP

Once the resin has cured, remove the tape and wax paper from the hull. Don't worry if the repaired area doesn't have a smooth finish. With a ball-end or disc grinder, carefully grind away the mat until the patch area is dished out about 1/16 inch deep. Bevel the outer edges slightly into the undamaged finish. Clean the patched area with acetone, and remove any debris. Trace any hairline cracks with a small, 1/16-inch ball-end grinder, and grind down to just below the gelcoat. Lift the tool as you reach the end of the crack, so the crack tapers into the undamaged surface.

GELCOATING

Gelcoat is not opaque; to achieve good coverage, you must apply a 0.020- to 0.025-inch-thick layer. Position the hull so the repair faces up; then mix about 1 ounce of gelcoat with 10 to 12 drops of hardener. Mix it slowly so you don't create excessive air bubbles; then pour the mixture into the dished area, and allow it to fill the entire area; it should form a raised mound. Dab the wet gelcoat with a mixing stick to eliminate any trapped air bubbles. Do the same with any hairline crack repairs.

Allow the gelcoat to cure for an hour or so. When gelcoat is applied to a surface that is exposed to air, it may feel tacky even after it has cured. This is because it cures from the inside out. You can simply wet-sand the surface with 400-grit sandpaper, and the tackiness will soon disappear. Use masking tape to protect the area around the patch before you sand it to prevent scratching the undamaged finish.

SURFACE SANDING

Prepare a cup of soapy water by mixing in a few drops of dish detergent; then wrap a piece of 400-grit sandpaper around a block eraser. Using the eraser as a sanding block helps produce a flat-finished surface. If you hand-sand with your fingers alone, you'll end up with an uneven surface. Wet-sand the repair area with 400-grit sandpaper followed by 600-grit; finish with 1,200-grit sandpaper. Remove the protective masking tape after you've sanded with the 600-grit, so you can blend the repair into the undamaged surface. If necessary, fill any small pinholes with drops of catalyzed gelcoat. Once it has cured, simply sand everything flush. The last step is to hand-rub the repair with a microfine rubbing compound, and then buff it with a good-quality fiberglass surface wax.

Patching a gelcoat-finished hull is truly an art, and it can take several tries to perfect your repair technique. No patch will perfectly match the original finish, but you can repair your hull in about three to four hours and save quite a bit of cash by not having to replace it

Saludos